1 thought on “The application of weaving handicrafts in jewelry jewelry”
Kim
The design of contemporary jewelry has long been a "leader" in the design industry. The widespread application of various materials made the jewelry design that was originally known for precious metals and precious gems. Unlike traditional jewelry design, while contemporary jewelry design inherits the tradition, it has made new attempts, breaking the original fixed model, and adding more people to think about Life is like flesh and blood. In the development of contemporary jewelry design, weaving crafts also have new appearances and attempts. Traditional and modern collisions have sparked new sparks. The combination of ancient techniques and new materials, the combination of new methods and old materials, may bring a wonderful feeling. This article is a summary of the application and development of woven crafts in jewelry design. The woven process, as the oldest process, has a deep connection with jewelry at the beginning of the origin of human beings, and has been applied to jewelry processing and design by people from early early. To this day, weaving technology has not only seen everywhere in people's daily life, but also has a new form in art development. For example, the concept of "fiber art" is rooted in ancient weaving art. It refers to the use of various fibers as materials and use traditional or modern craftsmanship to create plane or three -dimensional art, which is a unified manifestation of practicality and ornamental. This includes both traditional dyes, such as carpets, wall blankets, etc., as well as wall -mounted, soft sculptures, fiber devices with modern composition. Whether in my country or Western countries, from "High Jewelry) to Fashion Jewelry and Art Jewelry, they can see the impact and application of weaving elements on the craftsmanship, which is enough to illustrate the traditional Weaving craftsmanship still occupies a pivotal position in the design of contemporary jewelry. . The materials used in the weaving process in jewelery design
(1) Rope line More common, for example, China uses a large number of rope lines with different materials and thickness to weave, combined with different rope line colors to prepare different beautiful decorations with different meaning. The advantages of rope line weaving are low cost, simple weaving method, short time, and soft control. The disadvantage is that it cannot be stored for a long time. (2) hair The hair woven was very popular among women in the Victorian period. In the eyes of women at the time, nothing could be more satisfying than weaving the hair of their beloved. During that period, hair woven woven was popular like traditional hook needles, and some were directly used in jewelry at that time, such as bracelets, bracelets, earrings, and some needed to be processed by craftsmen. accessories. The commemorative significance of hair woven jewelry is much greater than the decorative significance, and it belongs to "commemorative jewelry". (3) Metal The metal materials can be roughly divided into two categories, namely precious metal materials and non -precious metal materials. The precious metal materials are gold, silver, platinum, etc. Non -precious metal materials are copper, zinc, iron, aluminum and its alloy materials. Among them, gold, silver, and platinum are indispensable materials in the design of jewelry design. Due to their sparse content, good thermal resistance, high stability, and easy preservation, it has been an ideal jewelry material for thousands of years, such as jewelry woven technology Among them, gold, silver, various "K gold" (22K, 18K, 14K, 10K) and so on. For example, in Figure 1, this ring is used to weaving processes. Because the hardness of gold and silver is not high, it is conducive to hand -woven production molding. However, because of the characteristics of high hardness, other "K gold" is much more difficult in hand -woven production of jewelry.
Figure 1 Weaving craft ring (4) Other materials In modern, diversified social and cultural life has made the development of jewelry no longer stick to a certain kind of In the form of fixed forms, the use of jewelry materials has added many elements that seem to have nothing to do with jewelry, such as cement, paper, ceramics, plastic, and even abandoned daily necessities. Gives more possibilities for jewelry, bringing us more unique visual and touch experience. . The elements used in the weaving process in the design of jewelry
(1) Rope knot element 1. China knot The weaving craftsmanship of characteristics is loved by people because of its auspiciousness, simple craftsmanship, and cheap materials. From the "knotting of the rope" in the Paleolithic era, to today's decorative technology, it reflects the wisdom and affection of ancient Chinese civilization. Nowadays, China's jewelry design is still widely used in the design of my country's jewelry. With the opening of design ideas, the design of modern jewelry design also has a combination of China knot with jade and precious metals, with a strong oriental charm. 2. The knot of Hehachacaleus In addition to the Chinese knot, the jewelry with the design element with Hercules has also been circulated to today. This simple knot for more than 2000 BC is said to be an amulet of the ancient Egyptians, and it is used in the decoration of jewelry in ancient Greece. Perhaps because of the high output of ancient European precious metals, unlike China, the knot of Hercules has been used on precious metal jewelry from the day of prevalent. Jewelry with the elements of Herakles unearthed in various regions of Europe, basically made by precious metals. The concise and generous bracelet created by Su Jin, the luxurious headdress and necklace of the cumulative gold beads, reflect the charming charm of the knot of Herracles. 3. Bowing The bow is developed from the collar. In Europe thousands of years ago, there was a prototype of the collar. The gentlemen in Western Europe in the 17th century began to wore handmade lace belt in the collar. Essence It is said that due to the continuous European war at that time, the Croatian soldiers fixed the neckline of the shirt with a silk scarf in a war in Prussia. Tie. At the end of the nineteenth century, at the grand banquet occasion, the bow was considered to be the only orthodox neckline and was worn by men. With the improvement of craftsmanship and the change of aesthetic trends, the end of the bow has become longer and longer, gradually becoming a tie. The exquisite and charming bow is also the darling of major jewelry brands. (2) Weaving elements 1. fabric woven The weaving is the process of producing in the structure of the fabric in staggered by meridian and weft. Essence According to the type of raw materials, it is divided into cotton, wool, silk, and hemp. Knitting is the process of using a knitting needle to form a coil of various materials and varieties, and then set the process to form a knitted fabric. There are two types of knitted knitted knitting and machine knitting. Hand -knitted sticks are used. It has a long history and low difficulty. It is very popular and very popular. Knitting in jewelry is cleverly combined with gold and silver wire lines. It is rare for gold and silver as a material that reflects the texture of the jewelry alone. The soft texture of the fabric and the gloss of the gold and silver have a unique beauty. Sarahahak, a jewelry designer from Tel Aviv, Israel, likes to use woven processes to reflect the structure and texture of the jewelry. Although the gold and silver wire is too single in color, the diversification of the weaving process has unexpectedly produced a unique effect. The application of sparse comparison, latitude and weft cross, interspersed masching, and thickness comparison, so that the weaving planes form a reluctance, hidden relief -like artistic effect. Sara Shahak also adds gemstones to the weaving, which makes her jewelry work with a mysterious exotic atmosphere. This woven is in the perpendicular yarn of two or more groups, and uses a shuttle to drive the weft gauze through the open and closing gauze opening of the upper and lower yarn to form a cross structure. The fabric. 2. Metal woven "weaving carving gold" is an ancient skill that prevailed during the Renaissance. It uses unique engraving skills on valuable metals to make the metal surface show fine and soft Visual texture of fabrics. Extremely delicate carvings give the jewelry light as a tulle texture and silk -like touch, and now the Italian jewelry brand Buccillati () re -bring it into the public's vision. The Italian jewelry brand founded in 1919 conquered the world with fine processing technology, unique weaving shapes, and artistic atmosphere full of historical heavy sense. The unique techniques because of the time and almost harsh requirements for craftsmen make Buccilla's "woven carving gold" jewelry "unique". Buccillati did not stop there. They combined the gem with the metal process and used the colored gems into the design. The filament inlaid is the production skill of traditional gold and silverware in my country, also known as fine gold technology. Beginning in the spring and autumn, it reached its peak in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is represented by the two main processes of flower wire and inlaid, with flowers as bones and inlaid decoration. Speaking of flowers, the filial piety queen phoenix crown unearthed unearthed by the Mausoleum. This precious cultural relic has been copied by Master Bai Jingyi, the inheritance of the intangible cultural heritage of the flower technology. The records of the ancient jade clothing and filament crafts in my country, which was the original concept of the combination of weaving and jewelry. In modern technology, when gold and silver silk can be intertwined, weaving jewelry was born in a brand new form. . The use technique of weaving process in jewelry design
(1) lock armor chain "Link Armor" chain. Large -scale production is beautiful and textured, and you need to calculate the number of rings you need (Figure 2).
FIG. 2 Links armor chain (2) Knitting The weaving with metal wire is more difficult than woven with velvet wires. Pure gold or silver must be used. Because they are more flexible. Weaving products can be stretched into the corresponding shape, which will also make it better overall effect. (3) Sluther This weaving can be freely followed. Because there is only one point in the entire weaving product that can be disassembled, which provides a great degree of freedom for pattern design. (4) Decoration This is a relatively simple method of hooking metal wire tubes on the frame. Pure gold or silver metal wire should be selected (Figure 3). FIG. 3 Decoration effect (5) Groll The simple twisted lines in jewelry production are often used as a starting point, and the method of use is diverse. The tighter the metal silk twisted, the shorter the length of the entire twisted wire. (6) braids braids can be used to make flat, linear metal wire structures, which are generally composed of three shackles wires. It has a variety of changes to be used and can weave quite delicate patterns. You can try to weave graphics with metal wires of different colors. (seven) knotting Although it is time -consuming with metal wire, it is not easy to keep it flat, but it can make some beautiful effects. Weaving products are generally made from sterling silver. The thinner the metal wire, the more delicate and tough the texture of the weaving products. . The performance of weaving art on jewelry
(1) The performance of national characteristics Different ethnic groups have different cultures, every nation is in The preferences will also be different. For example, the Yi people prefer the colorful objects, and often decorate the tassel on the headdress. The patterns of woven jewelry are closely linked with unique costumes and accessories. There is a close relationship between the strong national colors and living habits. Tibetan accessories have auspicious meanings in most cases, whether they are materials or patterns. Some ethnic minorities like to use knotting to reflect their unique ethnic atmosphere. By preparation and engraving, New Zealand jasper can not only show the unique characteristics of jade itself, but also show the culture of gross profit. (2) The reflection of fashion temperament The fashion jewelry attaches importance to unique personality in the design. By weaving art, the jade gemstone is inlaid, and the woven rope and related accessories are matched to further highlight the color and level (Figure 4). Figure 4 Weaving necklace (3) expression of personality characteristics The personalized design of the jewelry is intended to play by the designer in accordance with what they think, reflecting the characteristics of their own characteristics A jewelry design. The most obvious feature of woven art is the selection material as you want to match the color. In the process of preparation, you can play arbitrarily and adjust at will, so as to better show your own characteristics. For example, the beads are arbitrarily selected to match the different colors, and the different shapes of the beads are selected for matching. . The conclusion
The weaving through thousands of years of process development and material evolution can be widely used in today's jewelry production. Essence This article analyzes the use and development of weaving crafts in jewelry design, summarizes the role of weaving crafts in the design of contemporary jewelry design, and draws the following conclusions: . The weaving process has historical extension. The essence of development is the emergence of new things and the demise of the old things, and the weaving process has not disappeared after time, but it shows different splendid trends with the development of society. 2. Weaving processes have multiple possibilities. Whether it is a primitive society with lack of resources or a wealthy modern society in social production, weaving craftsmanship has been in development, and it is not limited to a certain form. 3. The development of weaving technology and jewelry design complement each other. After thousands of years of inheritance and development, the weaving process is transformed in this process, and it is finally widely used in jewelry production. This is inseparable from the development of jewelry itself. People consciously choose the decorative object in their own decoration, and the decorative object itself has further beautified the subject of the decoration. This process is the interaction between the decoration subject and the decorative object. The design of the weaving process and jewelery is also the same. The two influence and development of the two complement each other in the process.
Wang Wei
The product director of Zhengde Dongqi, vice chairman of the Moon India International Art Alliance, Italy's "Golden Gong Family" brand special technology consultant, German "LANG" brand special product craft consultant, youth member of the Jewelry Design Committee of China Jewelry and Jewelry Industry Association, senior jewelry designer of Shanghai Baoyu Industry, Shanghai, China
R n [1] Zhang Duo. Weaving art applied in jewelery [j]. Chinese treasure jade, 2019, 155 (6): 73-79. [2] Che Rui. Application analysis of the preparation process in jewelery design [J]. Digital world, 2020, 175 (5): 110-110. [3] Yuan Liya, Mao Lili. Hand-hook needle woven in clothing design Application research [J]. Textile technology progress, 2019, 219 (4): 37-40. [4] Zhang Zaozao, Mu Sibei. Analysis of the application and innovation of jade carving crafts in carving jewelry [J]. Art. Tasting, 2020 (29). The original is not easy. All rights reserved. If you need to reprint, please contact the "Chinese Gemstone" magazine and indicate the source.
The design of contemporary jewelry has long been a "leader" in the design industry. The widespread application of various materials made the jewelry design that was originally known for precious metals and precious gems. Unlike traditional jewelry design, while contemporary jewelry design inherits the tradition, it has made new attempts, breaking the original fixed model, and adding more people to think about Life is like flesh and blood. In the development of contemporary jewelry design, weaving crafts also have new appearances and attempts. Traditional and modern collisions have sparked new sparks. The combination of ancient techniques and new materials, the combination of new methods and old materials, may bring a wonderful feeling. This article is a summary of the application and development of woven crafts in jewelry design.
The woven process, as the oldest process, has a deep connection with jewelry at the beginning of the origin of human beings, and has been applied to jewelry processing and design by people from early early. To this day, weaving technology has not only seen everywhere in people's daily life, but also has a new form in art development. For example, the concept of "fiber art" is rooted in ancient weaving art. It refers to the use of various fibers as materials and use traditional or modern craftsmanship to create plane or three -dimensional art, which is a unified manifestation of practicality and ornamental. This includes both traditional dyes, such as carpets, wall blankets, etc., as well as wall -mounted, soft sculptures, fiber devices with modern composition. Whether in my country or Western countries, from "High Jewelry) to Fashion Jewelry and Art Jewelry, they can see the impact and application of weaving elements on the craftsmanship, which is enough to illustrate the traditional Weaving craftsmanship still occupies a pivotal position in the design of contemporary jewelry.
. The materials used in the weaving process in jewelery design
(1) Rope line
More common, for example, China uses a large number of rope lines with different materials and thickness to weave, combined with different rope line colors to prepare different beautiful decorations with different meaning. The advantages of rope line weaving are low cost, simple weaving method, short time, and soft control. The disadvantage is that it cannot be stored for a long time.
(2) hair
The hair woven was very popular among women in the Victorian period. In the eyes of women at the time, nothing could be more satisfying than weaving the hair of their beloved. During that period, hair woven woven was popular like traditional hook needles, and some were directly used in jewelry at that time, such as bracelets, bracelets, earrings, and some needed to be processed by craftsmen. accessories. The commemorative significance of hair woven jewelry is much greater than the decorative significance, and it belongs to "commemorative jewelry".
(3) Metal
The metal materials can be roughly divided into two categories, namely precious metal materials and non -precious metal materials. The precious metal materials are gold, silver, platinum, etc. Non -precious metal materials are copper, zinc, iron, aluminum and its alloy materials. Among them, gold, silver, and platinum are indispensable materials in the design of jewelry design. Due to their sparse content, good thermal resistance, high stability, and easy preservation, it has been an ideal jewelry material for thousands of years, such as jewelry woven technology Among them, gold, silver, various "K gold" (22K, 18K, 14K, 10K) and so on. For example, in Figure 1, this ring is used to weaving processes. Because the hardness of gold and silver is not high, it is conducive to hand -woven production molding. However, because of the characteristics of high hardness, other "K gold" is much more difficult in hand -woven production of jewelry.
Figure 1 Weaving craft ring
(4) Other materials
In modern, diversified social and cultural life has made the development of jewelry no longer stick to a certain kind of In the form of fixed forms, the use of jewelry materials has added many elements that seem to have nothing to do with jewelry, such as cement, paper, ceramics, plastic, and even abandoned daily necessities. Gives more possibilities for jewelry, bringing us more unique visual and touch experience.
. The elements used in the weaving process in the design of jewelry
(1) Rope knot element
1. China knot
The weaving craftsmanship of characteristics is loved by people because of its auspiciousness, simple craftsmanship, and cheap materials. From the "knotting of the rope" in the Paleolithic era, to today's decorative technology, it reflects the wisdom and affection of ancient Chinese civilization. Nowadays, China's jewelry design is still widely used in the design of my country's jewelry. With the opening of design ideas, the design of modern jewelry design also has a combination of China knot with jade and precious metals, with a strong oriental charm.
2. The knot of Hehachacaleus
In addition to the Chinese knot, the jewelry with the design element with Hercules has also been circulated to today. This simple knot for more than 2000 BC is said to be an amulet of the ancient Egyptians, and it is used in the decoration of jewelry in ancient Greece. Perhaps because of the high output of ancient European precious metals, unlike China, the knot of Hercules has been used on precious metal jewelry from the day of prevalent. Jewelry with the elements of Herakles unearthed in various regions of Europe, basically made by precious metals. The concise and generous bracelet created by Su Jin, the luxurious headdress and necklace of the cumulative gold beads, reflect the charming charm of the knot of Herracles.
3. Bowing
The bow is developed from the collar. In Europe thousands of years ago, there was a prototype of the collar. The gentlemen in Western Europe in the 17th century began to wore handmade lace belt in the collar. Essence It is said that due to the continuous European war at that time, the Croatian soldiers fixed the neckline of the shirt with a silk scarf in a war in Prussia. Tie. At the end of the nineteenth century, at the grand banquet occasion, the bow was considered to be the only orthodox neckline and was worn by men. With the improvement of craftsmanship and the change of aesthetic trends, the end of the bow has become longer and longer, gradually becoming a tie. The exquisite and charming bow is also the darling of major jewelry brands.
(2) Weaving elements
1. fabric woven
The weaving is the process of producing in the structure of the fabric in staggered by meridian and weft. Essence According to the type of raw materials, it is divided into cotton, wool, silk, and hemp. Knitting is the process of using a knitting needle to form a coil of various materials and varieties, and then set the process to form a knitted fabric. There are two types of knitted knitted knitting and machine knitting. Hand -knitted sticks are used. It has a long history and low difficulty. It is very popular and very popular. Knitting in jewelry is cleverly combined with gold and silver wire lines. It is rare for gold and silver as a material that reflects the texture of the jewelry alone. The soft texture of the fabric and the gloss of the gold and silver have a unique beauty. Sarahahak, a jewelry designer from Tel Aviv, Israel, likes to use woven processes to reflect the structure and texture of the jewelry. Although the gold and silver wire is too single in color, the diversification of the weaving process has unexpectedly produced a unique effect. The application of sparse comparison, latitude and weft cross, interspersed masching, and thickness comparison, so that the weaving planes form a reluctance, hidden relief -like artistic effect. Sara Shahak also adds gemstones to the weaving, which makes her jewelry work with a mysterious exotic atmosphere.
This woven is in the perpendicular yarn of two or more groups, and uses a shuttle to drive the weft gauze through the open and closing gauze opening of the upper and lower yarn to form a cross structure. The fabric.
2. Metal woven
"weaving carving gold" is an ancient skill that prevailed during the Renaissance. It uses unique engraving skills on valuable metals to make the metal surface show fine and soft Visual texture of fabrics. Extremely delicate carvings give the jewelry light as a tulle texture and silk -like touch, and now the Italian jewelry brand Buccillati () re -bring it into the public's vision. The Italian jewelry brand founded in 1919 conquered the world with fine processing technology, unique weaving shapes, and artistic atmosphere full of historical heavy sense.
The unique techniques because of the time and almost harsh requirements for craftsmen make Buccilla's "woven carving gold" jewelry "unique". Buccillati did not stop there. They combined the gem with the metal process and used the colored gems into the design.
The filament inlaid is the production skill of traditional gold and silverware in my country, also known as fine gold technology. Beginning in the spring and autumn, it reached its peak in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is represented by the two main processes of flower wire and inlaid, with flowers as bones and inlaid decoration. Speaking of flowers, the filial piety queen phoenix crown unearthed unearthed by the Mausoleum. This precious cultural relic has been copied by Master Bai Jingyi, the inheritance of the intangible cultural heritage of the flower technology.
The records of the ancient jade clothing and filament crafts in my country, which was the original concept of the combination of weaving and jewelry. In modern technology, when gold and silver silk can be intertwined, weaving jewelry was born in a brand new form.
. The use technique of weaving process in jewelry design
(1) lock armor chain
"Link Armor" chain. Large -scale production is beautiful and textured, and you need to calculate the number of rings you need (Figure 2).
FIG. 2 Links armor chain
(2) Knitting
The weaving with metal wire is more difficult than woven with velvet wires. Pure gold or silver must be used. Because they are more flexible. Weaving products can be stretched into the corresponding shape, which will also make it better overall effect.
(3) Sluther
This weaving can be freely followed. Because there is only one point in the entire weaving product that can be disassembled, which provides a great degree of freedom for pattern design.
(4) Decoration
This is a relatively simple method of hooking metal wire tubes on the frame. Pure gold or silver metal wire should be selected (Figure 3).
FIG. 3 Decoration effect
(5) Groll
The simple twisted lines in jewelry production are often used as a starting point, and the method of use is diverse. The tighter the metal silk twisted, the shorter the length of the entire twisted wire.
(6) braids
braids can be used to make flat, linear metal wire structures, which are generally composed of three shackles wires. It has a variety of changes to be used and can weave quite delicate patterns. You can try to weave graphics with metal wires of different colors.
(seven) knotting
Although it is time -consuming with metal wire, it is not easy to keep it flat, but it can make some beautiful effects. Weaving products are generally made from sterling silver. The thinner the metal wire, the more delicate and tough the texture of the weaving products.
. The performance of weaving art on jewelry
(1) The performance of national characteristics
Different ethnic groups have different cultures, every nation is in The preferences will also be different. For example, the Yi people prefer the colorful objects, and often decorate the tassel on the headdress.
The patterns of woven jewelry are closely linked with unique costumes and accessories. There is a close relationship between the strong national colors and living habits. Tibetan accessories have auspicious meanings in most cases, whether they are materials or patterns. Some ethnic minorities like to use knotting to reflect their unique ethnic atmosphere. By preparation and engraving, New Zealand jasper can not only show the unique characteristics of jade itself, but also show the culture of gross profit.
(2) The reflection of fashion temperament
The fashion jewelry attaches importance to unique personality in the design. By weaving art, the jade gemstone is inlaid, and the woven rope and related accessories are matched to further highlight the color and level (Figure 4).
Figure 4 Weaving necklace
(3) expression of personality characteristics
The personalized design of the jewelry is intended to play by the designer in accordance with what they think, reflecting the characteristics of their own characteristics A jewelry design. The most obvious feature of woven art is the selection material as you want to match the color. In the process of preparation, you can play arbitrarily and adjust at will, so as to better show your own characteristics. For example, the beads are arbitrarily selected to match the different colors, and the different shapes of the beads are selected for matching.
. The conclusion
The weaving through thousands of years of process development and material evolution can be widely used in today's jewelry production. Essence This article analyzes the use and development of weaving crafts in jewelry design, summarizes the role of weaving crafts in the design of contemporary jewelry design, and draws the following conclusions:
. The weaving process has historical extension. The essence of development is the emergence of new things and the demise of the old things, and the weaving process has not disappeared after time, but it shows different splendid trends with the development of society.
2. Weaving processes have multiple possibilities. Whether it is a primitive society with lack of resources or a wealthy modern society in social production, weaving craftsmanship has been in development, and it is not limited to a certain form.
3. The development of weaving technology and jewelry design complement each other. After thousands of years of inheritance and development, the weaving process is transformed in this process, and it is finally widely used in jewelry production. This is inseparable from the development of jewelry itself. People consciously choose the decorative object in their own decoration, and the decorative object itself has further beautified the subject of the decoration. This process is the interaction between the decoration subject and the decorative object. The design of the weaving process and jewelery is also the same. The two influence and development of the two complement each other in the process.
Wang Wei
The product director of Zhengde Dongqi, vice chairman of the Moon India International Art Alliance, Italy's "Golden Gong Family" brand special technology consultant, German "LANG" brand special product craft consultant, youth member of the Jewelry Design Committee of China Jewelry and Jewelry Industry Association, senior jewelry designer of Shanghai Baoyu Industry, Shanghai, China
R n
[1] Zhang Duo. Weaving art applied in jewelery [j]. Chinese treasure jade, 2019, 155 (6): 73-79.
[2] Che Rui. Application analysis of the preparation process in jewelery design [J]. Digital world, 2020, 175 (5): 110-110.
[3] Yuan Liya, Mao Lili. Hand-hook needle woven in clothing design Application research [J]. Textile technology progress, 2019, 219 (4): 37-40.
[4] Zhang Zaozao, Mu Sibei. Analysis of the application and innovation of jade carving crafts in carving jewelry [J]. Art. Tasting, 2020 (29).
The original is not easy. All rights reserved. If you need to reprint, please contact the "Chinese Gemstone" magazine and indicate the source.